Chinese tea

CHINESE CHINESE

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An Introduction

The origin of the word ‘tea’ is the pronunciation in the Fujian
(a province on the coast of China) dialect of the Chinese
character ‘cha’ which means tea. The Chinese has been
drinking tea since time immemorial and has been exporting
tea to the rest of the world for over one thousand years. It
was introduced into Europe in the seventeenth century and
has become a very popular drink ever since.

According to legend, tea was first discovered and used as
a medicinal herb by Yan-Di (Emperor Yan), one of the three
‘emperors’ in ancient China, about 4,600 years ago.
Written records have it that cultivation of tea started in
China about 3,000 years ago. At that time, the Chinese
character of ‘cha’ had not been created and instead another
Chinese character ‘tu’ was used to represent tea. The
character ‘cha’ was first used in the Tang Dynasty when the
famous tea connoisseur, Lu Yu, wrote the ‘Tea Treatise’
and changed the character for tea from ‘tu’ to ‘cha’.

Before the Tang Dynasty (618 - 907) in China, only people
in the southern part of the country drank tea. Drinking tea
became a wide spread pastime throughout the whole
country in the Tang Dynasty and it even spread to Tibet,
Mongolia and other neighbouring regions. It became even
more popular in the Ming Dynasty (1368 - 1644) when new
methods of processing tea leaves were developed and new
utensils for preparing and drinking tea were made.

Health effects of tea

There are hundreds of chemical compounds in tea leaves.
Those which are of benefits to or may affect human health
are amino acids, flavonoides, catechins, vitamins (C, E and
K), polysaccharides, fluoride and caffeine. It is generally
believed that drinking tea in moderate quantity will improve
one’s mental function, improve eyesight, strengthen teeth,
increase immunity against intestinal disorders, and protect
body cells from oxidation.

Types of tea

If tea is categorized according to the size of tea leaves, tea
can be classified as large-leave tea, medium-leave tea and
small-leave tea. Tea can also be classified according to the
shape of the tea leaves; under this classification, tea is
classified as long-leave tea, round-leave tea and willow-
shape-leave tea.

Tea is also classified according to the method the leaves
are processed after they have been picked and as such,
tea can be classified as green tea, black tea, white tea,
wulong tea, yellow tea and flower tea.

Green Tea (Lu Cha)

After tea leaves have been picked, they undergo a process
which is unique to the processing of Chinese tea. It is called
‘sha qing’ (kill green). Under this process, tea leaves are
placed in a large pan and heated up to 70 degrees
centigrade to neutralize the enzyme in the tea leaves. If the
temperature is below 70 degrees, the enzyme will be
activated and turn the tea leaves red and damage the
quality of the tea leaves. If the temperature is higher than
70 degrees, the leaves, especially the buds and young
leaves, will be burnt and produce an unpleasant smell.
During the ‘sha qing’ process, the pan should first be
covered for two to three minutes after which the lid is
removed and the whole pan is shaken and tossed to stir
and mix up the leaves.

The leaves are then taken for the ‘rolling’ process under
which the leaves are pressed, twisted and kneaded in a
pressing drum to break the tissues of the leaves and form
the leaves into strips along the main vein. During this
process, some sap exudes from the leaves. This process
should last for about 20 to 25 minutes, depending on the
maturity and tenderness of the leaves or buds and the size
of the drum.

Green tea does not go through the process of enzymatic
oxidation; this process is usually called fermentation in
China.

After the ‘rolling’ process, the tea leaves stick together and
form lumps as big as fists. They are transferred to another
machine to be broken up and the leaves are sifted
according to pre-determined sizes and grades.

Such tea leaves are further processed in one of the
following ways:

a.        Steaming – This method was widely practised in the
Tang and Song (960 – 1279) Dynasties and became
obsolete during the Ming Dynasty. However, this method
was transferred to Japan where it remains the dominant
method of processing tea.

b.        Pan-frying – This method started in the later Song
Dynasty and has been the most common method of
processing tea. The leaves remain greenish with a strong
fragrance and the taste is mellow. More popular pan-fried
green teas are Mei (Eyebrow), Zhu (Pearl), Longjing
(Dragon Well), Biluochun (Jade Shell).

c.        Roasting – Roasted green tea leaves do not look
as firm and bright as the pan-fried leaves, but they are
unbroken. They are brightly green and the tea infusion
tastes mellow with a refreshing aroma. The more popular
roasted green tea is Huangshan Maofeng (Yellow Mountain
Hairy Down), and Taiping Hou Kui (Taiping County Monkey
King) etc.

d.        Sun-drying – Tea leaves so dried are not as fragrant
as other types of green tea leaves and its infusion is
yellowish. Most of sun-dried green tea is used as raw
materials for making tea blocks.

Black Tea (Hong [red] Cha)

After the tea leaves have withered, they become soft with
less water content. They are then pressed, twisted and
kneaded in a machine so that the tissues of the leaves
become torn and the leaves curl into strips. At the same
time, the leaves emit some sap which sticks to the surface
of the leaves.

The tea leaves are then placed in a fermentation tray to go
through the enzymatic oxidation or fermentation (usually so
called in China) process under which the chlorophyll in the
leaves breaks down and tannins are released. The room
provided for the fermentation process is kept at a
temperature from 25 to 30 degrees centigrade and the
humidity at over 90%. After the fermentation process, the
leaves turn reddish and are then roasted at an appropriate
temperature, depending on the type of tea leaves.

Black tea produced in China includes whole-leave black tea
and broken-leave black tea whereas black tea produced in
other places is only broken-leave tea. Leaves for producing
broken-leave black tea are cut into small pieces by machine
after they go through the fermentation process and roasted
to dry. Very often, such broken black tea leaves are fed
into tea bags for convenient consumption.

Whole-leave black tea produced in China is called Gongfu
Black Tea and the processed tea leaves are firm, slim and
curly, and the leaves are whole leaves. They are normally
named after the places where they are produced, for
example, Qihong of Qimen (Anhui Province), Black tea from
Yunnan Province, Yinghong from Yingde (Guangdong
Province) etc.

Zhenghong from Zhengshan (Fujian Province) belongs to
Small-Leave black tea category. The leaves are dark and
glittery and the infusion tastes mellow and rich.

White Tea (Bai Cha)

White tea undergoes the semi-fermentation process and its
main production areas include Fujian and Zhejiang Provinces
in China. The leaves are mainly leave buds with an
abundance of white hair. After the leaves have withered
until they are 70% to 80% dry, they are not rolled or pan-
fried but are roasted dry.

The more popular white teas produced in China include
Baihao Yinzhen (Silver Needle with White Down), Baimudan
(White Peony) and Shoumei (White Eyebrows).

Wulong Tea (Wulong Cha)

Wulong tea originates in Fujian and Guangdong Provinces.
The leaves picked for producing wulong tea are mainly
mature leaves. The picked leaves wither either in the sun or
with heat; they are then placed in a stirring machine for
stirring so that the edges of the leaves are broken and
oxidize and the colour turns reddish. At the same time,
fermentation takes place. Before the leaves go through the
complete fermentation process (half fermentation), the
leaves are pan-fried, then put into a rolling machine for
rolling so that the tissues of the leaves are broken and the
flat leaves are rolled into strips. Sap is also emitted from
the leaves and sticks onto the surface of the leaves. After
the rolling process, the leaves stick together into lumps
which must be broken up and then roasted. Wulong tea’s
fragrance is fruity and flowery, and it tastes rich and
refreshing.

The more popular wulong teas include Wuyi Yan Cha (Rock
Tea from Mount Wuyi), Tie Guanyin (Iron Goddess of
Mercy), Huang Jin Gui (Gold Laurel), Shuixian (Narcissus),
Fenghuang Dancong (Phoenix Wulong), Pauzhong (Taiwan
Wulong) etc.

Yellow Tea (Huang Cha)

There are two types of yellow tea: large yellow tea and
small yellow tea. Yellow tea differs from the other types of
tea in that its leaves are yellow and the tea infusion is also
yellow. Its production process includes the following steps:

a)        ‘Sha qing’ (see description under Green tea above),

b)        ‘Menhuang (fried in a covered pan so that the leaves
turn yellow), and

c)        Roast.

The ‘stirring and rolling’ step is not usually required for
producing yellow tea but for the famous Beigang Maojian
(North Port Hair Point), Luyuan Maojian (Deer Park Hair
Point), the leaves are rolled and stirred before the
‘menhuang’ step.

The more popular yellow teas include Junshan Yinzhen
(Sovereign Mount Silver Needle), MengDin Huangya (Peak
of Mount Meng Yellow Bud), Pingyang Huangtang
(Pingyang Yellow Infusion) etc.

Dark Tea (Hei [black] Cha)

The Chinese name for dark tea is really ‘black tea’. The tea
leaves for making dark tea are from tea trees with large
leaves. As mature leaves are used for making dark tea and
as their fermentation process takes longer than other tea
leaves to complete, their colour is near black or dark
brown, hence the name. The taste of dark tea is rich and
mellow and can be brewed up to ten times.

Dark tea is a very popular drink amongst the ethnic
minorities in China but pu’er tea which is produced in
Yunnan, Sichuan, Hunan and Guandong has become very
popular with people in Guangdong, Taiwan and South-east
Asia.

Dark tea goes through the ‘sha qing’ stage as does green
tea but when the leaves are being dried, the pans are
covered. The leaves are then rubbed and rolled until the
tissues break down and the leaves are formed into strips
along the main vein. The leaves are then spread out for
drying in the sun or roasted until they are about 90% dry.
The dried leaves are then compressed softly to form piles
and water is sprayed onto then. They are left to ferment
until the leaves turn dark brown and produce a rich aroma.
The leaves lumps are then dried in the sun and then broken
up and the leaves are sifted according to grades.

Pu’er tea leaves can also be made into tea bricks or cakes
during the fermentation stage for subsequent marketing.

Flower Tea (Hua Cha)

Flower tea is produced by fusing tea leaves and scented
flowers to form an integrated product. Tea leaves are
porous and have a high propensity to absorb both moisture
and scent. Usually, roasted green tea is used to blend with
selected flowers to produce flower tea but sometimes
wulong and to a lesser extent black tea are also used for
this purpose.

Before the roasted tea leaves are mixed with flowers, the
moisture content should not exceed 4%. The flowers
selected for blending should be in blossom as their
fragrance reaches its peak at this point. After the tea
leaves and flowers have been mixed, its temperature will
rise as a result of fermentation. When the temperature
reaches a certain level, the ‘rick’ should be stirred and
spread out so as to lower the temperature and to allow the
leaves and flowers to ‘breathe’ again. This process may be
repeated.

The tea leaves are then separated from the flowers by sifts
and roasted. In order to enhance the aroma of the ‘flower
tea’, a small quantity of fresh flowers can be added to the
‘processed tea leaves’ but the new mixture need not be
roasted again. After the mixture has dried, it is ready for
consumption.

The more popular flower teas are jasmine, osmanthus,
white orchid, rose etc.

How to brew Chinese tea

It is the usual practice to produce several infusions from the
same tea leaves by refilling the teapot. In order to brew an
enjoyable ‘cuppa’, we should take into consideration the
following:

a. Quantity of tea leaves

There is no hard and fast rule dictating the exact quantity of
leaves required for making tea. This depends on the type of
tea being prepared, size of the teapot, and one’s habit and
taste. Elderly people tend to find stronger teas more
enjoyable and they use more leaves in a brew. On the other
hand, most young people prefer lighter tea and fewer tea
leaves are used. As a rule of thump, if we brew tea in a
cup, we put three grams of tea leaves in about 150 cc of
water. For pu’er, we need to increase the quantity to
between five to ten grams for the same quantity of water. If
we use a teapot, a lot depends on our experience and
taste; however, the following is provided as a guide:

Type of tea                                     Quantity of leaves

Pu’er and Liuan                                1/5 of teapot
Green tea                                        1/5 of teapot
Wulong                                            1/3 of teapot
White tea                                         1/3 of teapot
Black tea                                         1/5 of teapot
Flower tea                                       1/5 of teapot

b. Temperature of water and brewing time

The temperature of the water used for brewing tea
depends on the type of tea being brewed. Although one
may brew tea in a cup, this is not an ideal way of preparing
tea. However, if there is no teapot available or if this is
preferred for convenience sake, one way to improve the
quality of the infusion is to pour a small quantity of boiling
water into the cup to cover all the tea leaves, wait for about
one minute and then add more boiling water to the cup until
it is 80% full. When about two-thirds of the infusion has
been consumed, more boiling water may be added to the
cup. If the tea is consumed in this manner, the
concentration of the infusion after each refilling is
maintained at more or less the same level.

Normally a teapot is used to brew tea. The temperature
and brewing time after each refilling for the various teas are
as follows. Again, this can be varied to suit individual tastes.

Type of tea    and      Water temperature and brewing time

Pu’er and Liuan
Boiling water – 15 seconds for 1st and 2nd brews, 1
minute for 3rd to 5th brews, 3 minutes for 6th brew and 5
minutes for 7th brew

Green tea
Boiled water at 85 degrees centigrade – 1 minute for 1st
and 2nd brews and 4 minutes for 3rd to 5th brews

Wulong
Boiling water – 10 seconds for 1st and 2nd brews, 30
seconds for 3rd brew, and 1.5 minutes for 4th and 5th
brews

White tea
Boiled water at 90 degrees centi-grade – 15 seconds for
1st and 2nd and brews, 30 seconds for 3rd and 4th brews
and 1 minute for 5th brew

Black tea
Boiled water at 90 degrees centi grade – 1 minute for 1st
and 2nd brews, 1.5 minutes for 3rd and 4th
brews and 3 minutes for 5th brew

When water is poured into a teapot, the kettle should be
held high so that the water stream can penetrate into the
tea leaves inside the teapot. On the other hand, when the
infusion is poured from the teapot to cups, the teapot
should be held as near to the cups as possible so as not to
lose the tea’s flavour and taste.

Teapot

While China is famous for producing porcelain products
such as crockery including teapots, most tea connoisseurs
prefer teapots made of Yixing (a county in Jiangsu
Province) purple clay. Yixing purple clay can absorb and
retain fragrance better than other clays. After a Yixing
teapot has been used for some time, the tea brewed in it
produces a stronger fragrance. Because of the absorbent
nature of Yixing purple clay, tea connoisseurs follow a strict
practice which is: a teapot is devoted to brew only one type
of tea. A Yixing teapot that has been used to brew black
tea should not be used to make wulong tea otherwise one
will not get the subtlety of the flavour, taste and fragrance
peculiar to wulong.

Social functions of tea-drinking in China

While drinking tea quenches thirst and provides enjoyment
for the taste buds, some customs have been developed
over the years in connection with this activity. According to
Confucius training, people should respect those who are
senior to them in the family network as well as in age, those
who hold senior positions in work, and the teachers (This
must be the envy of members of the teaching profession in
the Western world). Therefore as a sign of respect, people
offer tea to their parents on Chinese New Year Day and on
their parents’ birthdays. For the more traditional families,
children kneel down and kowtow to their parents on these
two important days and then present cups of tea to their
parents who should give their children red packets
containing some money (which in Chinese is called ‘lishi’ –
lucky money).

To say ‘thank you’ to one’s parents for bringing one up, the
tradition is that in a wedding, the bride and bridegroom
kneel down in front of their parents and offer them tea in
tea cups. Again, after the parents have sipped some tea,
they give the newly-wed red packets which are supposed to
bring the new couple good luck.

In the olden days, when a teacher admitted a new pupil, the
latter had to kneel down in front of a portrait of Confucius
and pour tea at the alter to show that he (girls were not
admitted to schools then) would study hard and   learn
Confucius teachings. He would also present a cup of tea to
his teacher. The same ceremony is followed when one
wishes to learn martial arts from a martial arts instructor.
The student had to kneel down and present a cup of tea to
his teacher.

Tea is sometimes offered on occasions of an entirely
different nature. When one has done something wrong and
wishes to make an apology to the offended, one invites the
latter to a meeting and offers tea to him/her. If the tea is
drunk, this shows that the apology is accepted. Refusal to
drink the tea means that the one making the apology is not
forgiven.

When a family or a group of people are having a meal, it is
normal practice for those junior in the family or in the social
hierarchy to pour tea for those who are senior.